Pontiac's Walldogs

Walldogs. Have you heard of them? They are a group of sign and mural artists from around the world who are transforming the walls of buildings on America's Main Street into amazing works of public art. We've already seen their eye-catching work along The Route from afar, but here in Pontiac we get to take a much closer look at these amazing murals. Pontiac is the home of Chief City Walldogs, a local group of sign and mural artists who have painted some awesome public art on the buildings around town. Our first stop today is to visit these remarkable "Murals on Main Street."

But before I tell you more about this extraordinary public art project, let me say a word or two about our overnight stay. As I have noted previously, Pontiac does not have a lot of lodging options--and none on Route 66 in our estimation--so we were happy to find the Best Western Pontiac Inn for our first night's stay on The Route. Conveniently located near the Mother Road, this older property has benefited from a recent remodel. The front-desk staff was friendly and helpful. Our room was clean, quiet, and comfy.  The price was right, especially with the free hot breakfast. Until the Fiesta and Palamar motels on Route 66 are renovated, we will stay here the next time we are in town.

Now let's go see some murals!

As we approach downtown, we are astonished by the number of murals on the buildings in downtown Pontiac. This touching tribute to Bob Waldmire, noted Route 66 cartographer and traveling artist, is also a lovely homage to the Mother Road.

Other murals, like this vibrant Coca-Cola advertisement, recall the old-fashioned commercial wall murals before the advent of billboards. These "Ghost Signs" are still visible on old buildings in many towns and cities today. Have you seen them around town where you live?

The mural painters of yore were often called Walldogs--a nickname that has been adopted by today's mural artists. In addition to their name, contemporary Walldogs have also espoused other traditions and techniques from the past, such as the use of vibrant colors

distinctive design styles

and themes imbued with nostalgia and historic significance.

Pretty nifty, huh?

Plus, Pontiac holds a significant place in the Walldog movement, which began in Allerton, Iowa, where the first official Walldog meet was held in 1993. Event host Nancy Bennett invited dozens of sign artists for the occasion, who convened in Allerton to paint large historic wall advertisements on several downtown buildings. The Walldog movement has continued to grow since then, hosting events around the country and transforming America's towns and cities with eye-popping wall art. The Walldogs' growing list of accomplishments are being chronicled by the International Walldog Mural and Sign Art Museum, which is located right here in Pontiac.

The Walldog movement arrived in Pontiac when its resident Walldogs hosted the Chief City Runs with the Dogs meet in 2009. Pontiac's Mayor, Bob Russell, describes the positive impact that the event had on the city:

Walldogs from around the world occupied our City for 4 days in June of 2009.  Even before they arrived in Pontiac, I could sense the anticipation and excitement growing in the hundreds of volunteers who had been planning for the event.  During those 4 days, the laughter and smiles on people’s faces was something that hadn’t been seen in the City of Pontiac for the past couple of years. When I walked around on that Sunday evening at the end of the event, and looked at all the murals, I still couldn’t believe what I had just seen happen. The many buildings that just a few months before where looking old and tired, now looked new and alive.  A long time City resident came up to me and said, “This City hasn’t looked this good in 40 years”.  I agreed with him.  Since that weekend, thousands of local residents, and untold numbers of visitors from around the world, have been able to enjoy the beauty of the murals as well as learn more about the history of Pontiac.  It is a pleasure to be downtown and see people strolling along the streets, taking pictures, or just enjoying everything that the murals have brought to our City. The City of Pontiac sends a big “Thank You” to all the Walldogs that made this happen.

The murals created during the celebration continue to draw the eye of tourists like us from around the nation and the world.

The Walldogs are certainly making their mark in communities across the country, playing an especially important role in the revitalization and beautification of small-town America.

We didn't expect to find so much great public art on Route 66. What other delightful surprises will we find along the Mother Road?

On the (Mother) Road with Jack Kerouac

Our first day on Route 66 reminds me of the movie On the Road (2012). On so many stretches of The Route, the scenery was so cinematic, unwinding like a film reel on the screen of the windshield while T and I watched with wonder. The film lacks the continuity and poetic rhythm of Jack Kerouac's novel, but it is well worth watching just to enjoy the beautiful cinematography of the road trips.

I can see a bit of myself in Sal Paradise, the main character of the story, who takes to the road as a kind of therapy. Sal seeks to distance himself from the life he leaves in the rear-view mirror; the greater the distance, the better he feels. And so do I. Like Sal, I am searching for answers to Life's questions. For me, this Route 66 road trip is as much a spiritual journey--a homing quest for authentic self--as it is the fulfillment of a long-cherished dream.

The film is based on Jack Kerouac's autobiographical novel On the Road, which chronicles the travels of a young writer across America between 1947 and 1950, beginning with his first long road trip that starts on Lincoln Highway and continues on parts of Route 66, among other highways and byways throughout the country. Like Sal, Kerouac embarked on a journey to find America and the inherent goodness in "American man." His quest for meaning, truth, and authentic experience was shared by other members of the Beat Generation (William Burroughs, Neal Cassady, Allen Ginsberg)--and this Blissful Vagabond. To me, there's no better place to begin this quest than on America's Main Street.

The book is a great read, as a novel and a travelogue. In fact, The Modern Library, The New York Times, and Time magazine ranked On the Road as one of the 100 best English-language novels of the 20th century. As a milestone in American literature, On the Road continues to inspire new generations of poets, writers, actors, musicians, and filmmakers--and travelers like me.

Perhaps even better than the novel itself is the Audible audio edition of On the Road, superbly narrated by Will Patton. (Matt Dillon's reading is notable, too, but Patton's masterful renditions of the characters make the story come alive.) This 11-CD 50th Anniverary Edition is well worth the listen--especially if you've got an 11-hour road trip ahead of you. The narration expresses Kerouac's notion of language as jazz, "somewhere between its Charlie Parker Ornithology period and another period that began with Miles Davis." The story of Sal's road adventures with Dean Moriarty flows with a jazzy, colloquial, improvisational fluidity. I wonder if Kerouac's cross-country road trips introduced him to the pulsating rhythm of the pavement and the liberating promise of the open road, leading him to associate the "beat" of the Beat Generation with the musical term of "being on the beat" and the spiritual state of being "blissful."

I am certainly beat from spending ten hours on the road, but more than mere weariness, I am still feeling the syncopated beat of tires striking control joints in the pavement, still sensing the forward momentum of all that road going, as I receive the benediction of the evening star and the blessing of blissful sleep.

So in America when the sun goes down and I sit on the old broken-down river pier watching the long, long skies over New Jersey and sense all that raw land that rolls in one unbelievable huge bulge over to the West Coast, and all that road going, and all the people dreaming in the immensity of it, and in Iowa I know by now the children must be crying in the land where they let the children cry, and tonight the stars'll be out, and don't you know that God is Pooh Bear? the evening star must be drooping and shedding her sparkler dims on the prairie, which is just before the coming of complete night that blesses the earth, darkens all the rivers, cups the peaks and folds the final shore in, and nobody, nobody knows what's going to happen to anybody besides the forlorn rags of growing old, I think of Dean Moriarty, I even think of Old Dean Moriarty the father we never found, I think of Dean Moriarty.

--Jack Kerouac, On the Road

Route 66 Day 1: Top Five Experiences

Because we have had so many peak experiences on our first day of driving Route 66, picking my Top Five experiences is a challenge. But here goes:

1. Clifford, the Travel Angel (aka, Ambassador of the Route 66 sign on Adams and Wabash) Meeting interesting people on the Mother Road--especially people I would never meet otherwise--is by far the peak experience of our first day on The Route. I'm still feelin' the love!

2. Lou Mitchell's Restaurant & Bakery 

Breakfast here was one of the best meals I've ever had. This place is definitely one of the Great American Diners and deserves its excellent ratings on Yelp! and TripAdvisor.

3. Berwyn's Toys & Trains 

This little treasure chest was the biggest surprise of the day. We thoroughly enjoyed our excursion to the happy days of childhood. So glad we stopped here on a whim.

4. Joliet's Route 66 Experience

This museum provided the best introduction to the history and cultural importance of the Mother Road. I loved the interactive exhibits, the faboo merch in the gift shop, and the free literature on The Route's coming attractions. Funks Grove and Devils Elbow, here we come!

5. Dwight 

What a charming whistle-stop on The Route! I loved the historical architecture--especially Ambler's Texaco--and the tranquil vibe of this quintessentially Midwestern village, the epitome of small-town America.

Pontiac at Last!

Twilight, again. Another ending. No matter how perfect the day is, it always has to end.

--Stephanie Meyer, Twilight

First advertisement for Meramec Caverns on Route 66

Look! The sign on that old barn is the first of many advertisements for Meramec Caverns, one of the most famous attractions on The Route, which is still 285 miles down the road. The barn billboard itself is a 66 Roadside Attraction, as indicated by the small blue sign to the left of the fence.

A few miles farther, we see the Old Log Cabin Restaurant at the junction of Historic Route 66 and Aurora Street, which signals the turnoff to Pontiac. The last dregs of light fade from the horizon, and the streets blacken as we finally arrive in town.

But the day is not done until we find a place to stay for the night.

Our lodging choices on The Route do not look promising as we cruise through town on Historic Route 66.

Even in the gathering darkness, the Fiesta Motel looks like it has seen better days. Plus, the TripAdvisor reviews are mixed at best. One reviewer claims that “the hotel appears to be the long-term lodging for several families, which give the motel an especially sketchy vibe.” We agree—and keep driving.

As we continue along The Route, we see The Palamar Motel south of downtown near the access road to I-55. What a disappointment to see the place looking so shabby—and scary. The Palamar was once a thriving establishment, its huge neon sign beckoning countless weary travelers like us driving the Mother Road. In the motel’s heyday, Saturday night crowds packed the adjacent supper club, swinging to the sound of the big bands. The bar was also a popular half-way watering-hole for politicians who commuted between Springfield and Chicago on Route 66. Not anymore. Somebody needs to dream big to bring this place back to life.

No wonder the National Trust for Historic Preservation has collectively placed classic Route 66 lodgings like The Palamar Motel on the list of America’s most endangered historic places. Too many of these national treasures are succumbing to poor maintenance; plus, demolishing and redeveloping ramshackle properties is often cheaper than renovating.  In addition, most are independently owned and simply cannot compete with hotel chains, which offer more amenities and loyalty-program benefits.

Tonight, however, we are left to pick from the hotel chains. Super8? No way—might as well head back to the Fiesta. Comfort Inn? Mixed reviews, so no thanks. The Best Western will have to do. Hope I can stay awake long enough to write my postcards!

Dwight's "Star" Attraction

Ever poised on that cusp between past and future, we tie memories to souvenirs like string to trees along life's path, marking the trail in case we lose ourselves around a bend of tomorrow's road.

--Susan Lendroth

As we approach the Village of Dwight, I-55 bends gracefully away from Route 66 to the west. Meanwhile, we've made three awkward turns--a right and two lefts--just to stay on The Route.

Although Route 66 bypasses Dwight's downtown, this quaint village is "not just another bump in the road"--and it is certainly not to be missed. Even the highway itself pays homage to delightful Dwight, curving around this quintessentially Midwestern town rather than careering through its center. Here, "the touch of dreams/is over all," as Carl Sandburg describes the ideal of the American small town with its picturesque streets, handsome homes, and historic buildings. Even Prince Albert found this town fit for a future king's visit. No wonder Dwight became "the most famous village of its size in America."

For Route 66 enthusiasts, the "star" attraction is the Ambler-Becker service station at the crossroads of Historic 66 and Old 66 on the south edge of town. Built in 1933, Ambler’s Texaco Gas Station, also known as Vernon’s Texaco Station and Becker’s Marathon Gas Station, was one of the first to service travelers on The Route. When it closed in 1999, Ambler's Texaco became the longest continuously operated service station to pump gas on Historic Route 66, serving customers for 66 years, naturally. We saw several old gas pumps in Joliet, but seeing these original antiques standing in front of this beautifully restored roadside attraction is truly impressive.

We park in the lot and get out to admire the station’s design; according to the guidebook, its cottage look with white clapboard siding was purposely styled to be homey and inviting to customers in the 1930s, many of whom were leaving the comforts of home for the first time to explore the country on the new highway. We peek through the door to the main office, remembering the old Coke machines of our past when a dime would buy an ice-cold bottle of Dr. Pepper (my favorite) or Pepsi (T's preference). Of course, when we were kids, everything was a lot less expensive. In those days, there was no such thing as "self-serve," and gasoline cost just 33 cents per gallon!

We also peer into the paned windows of the service bay, a simple circa-1940 concrete block addition to the north side of the original building. The Ford firetruck on the lift looks like it is just as roadworthy as it was in the 1930s. The garage is chock full of vintage antiques, such as the old-fashioned tire pump and gas can on the workbench. The drawings of fancy cars of the 1930s and '40s stenciled on the work cabinet certainly look much more stylish than our 2014 Ford Focus. However, we can hardly imagine driving a vehicle without power steering and brakes, trying to negotiate the twists and turns of the Mother Road. The Route earned its reputation for "Dead Man's" curves.

Like so many of the buildings we have seen so far on Route 66, the Ambler-Becker service station has been given a new life after finally closing up shop in 2002. With the help of a matching grant from the National Park Service’s Route 66 Corridor Preservation Program, the station now serves as a visitor’s center for the Village of Dwight. It was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2001. As a harbinger of the future, the EV charging station on the north side of the parking lot promises that the Ambler-Becker station will continue to serve Route 66 travelers for decades to come.

As we prepare to leave, the Old Route 66 Family Restaurant sign across the street beckons us to "follow the Mother Road to good food." TripAdvisor reviews confirm their claim, and we're tempted to find out whether they have a home-cooked antidote for the chicken dinner we suffered at the Polk-A-Dot in Braidwood. But the allure of downtown is too strong, so we decide to discover a bit more about delightful Dwight before the sun goes down. We take a left on Old Route 66, which becomes West Mazon Avenue as we approach the center of town. We admire the large homes, old and new, which line the tree-draped streets. We pass the former C&A Railroad Depot, a splendid example of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture built in 1891. Across the street from the depot sits the former Frank L. Smith Bank, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1905. As we circle around town to the south, we drive by the stately John R. Oughton House (now a restaurant) with its lovely carriage house (now the public library) and Don Quixote-esque windmill built in 1891  by Dwight physician Dr. Leslie Keeley, founder of the world-famous Keeley Institute. The village still has the feel of the therapeutic community it was for the hundreds of thousands of alcoholics who came to Dwight to take the Keeley Cure. Who knew that such a little town could hold so many treasures?

We are reluctant to leave Dwight in the rear-view mirror, but we must press on to Odell. We return to the Ambler-Becker station for one last look before heading southwest on Historic Route 66. As the sun sets, I notice a wind farm to the east; on the western horizon, the ruin of old barns fade into the lengthening shadows. The two images seem poised on the cusp of the past and future.

As we enter Odell, a sign reads "Small town with a big heart where everybody is somebody." The tiny town probably lives up to its great motto, but the streets are deserted as we drive through. We are looking for the old Mobil Station (long closed) with its galloping red-winged horse sign and the historic Odell Standard Oil Station. After spending so much time admiring the Ambler-Beck station, we are less impressed with these remnants of the past: the one with only the sign and a couple of classic cars to keep it from fading into oblivion; and the other in need of another restoration. The ravages of time and weather render the upkeep of these and so many other historic buildings a Sisyphean task.

Yet without such heroic efforts, what would become of the Mother Road?

Godley to Gardner

“The path of memory is neither straight or safe, and we travel down it at our risk.”

--Neil Gaiman, The Tragical Comedy or Comical Tragedy of Mr. Punch

Ironically, the more things change, the more they stay the same on Route 66, especially in the coal-mining country south of Braidwood. These days, the Exelon nuclear power plant dominates the eastern skyline, generating enough electricity to supply more than two million average homes in northern Illinois. The 4,457-acre site was built on land ravaged by strip mines which pocked the area in the late 1800s when coal was king. Some of the scarred land has been reclaimed by the Mazonia/Braidwood State Fish and Wildlife Area south of the generating station; however, the plant's release of radioactive tritium has tainted the groundwater, threatening and endangering many species, including the people who live in this area. The crimes against Nature in these parts will not go unpunished.

The bucolic landscape is strangely desolate along this stretch of Route 66. A few slag heaps mark what little remains of the once thriving coal-mining towns of Godley and Braceville, which barely cling to the map. Near Godley, an old truck sits atop the slag pile of the closed K Mine, and Exelon's cooling lake hides the scars of the defunct Torino, Rickson, and Turin mines. Like Godley, Braceville was once a booming town with many commercial establishments--general stores, banks, restaurants, a hotel, and even an opera house--but they are long gone. South of town, the infamous Riviera Restaurant--a popular watering hole during Prohibition and a favorite hangout of Al Capone in his heyday--now lies in ruins after being destroyed by fire in 2010. 

The passage of time has been kinder to Gardner, which manages to attract visitors with an actual downtown and one well-advertised attraction: an old two-cell jailhouse. Located in city park, the limestone structure was built in 1906 and was still in use until the late 1950s. Today, tourists are encouraged to "go behind bars" for photo ops. Perhaps more notable, though, is the Streetcar Diner next to the jail, a restaurant made from an old horse-drawn streetcar once operated by the Kankakee Transit System. Located behind the Riviera Restaurant for decades, the diner was discovered by the Illinois Route 66 Preservation Committee, restored it to its original appearance, and placed here in the park as a memorial to the Riviera and a reminder of a time gone by. 

These attractions emphasize the temptation to stop everywhere to see everything on Route 66. We are just barely underway, but we have already learned that such an endeavor is utterly impossible. Besides, which attractions represent the "real" Route, the "authentic" Mother Road? Which attractions are genuine artifacts that tell the truth about a place in time, and which ones are commercial advertisements for towns and cities seeking to profit from their proximity to Route 66? The path of memory often blurs this distinction. The risk is that I will follow someone else's path of memory rather than stay true to my dream of The Route, advancing confidently in that direction. Choices must be made, and no guidebook can make them for us.

The Mother Road is what we imagine it to be--and every choice we make along the way.

Once we leave Gardner, we turn onto an original four-lane stretch of Route 66 that runs parallel to a railroad track. Before I-55 was constructed, this section of Route 66 was a divided, four-lane highway; now the northbound lanes of I-55 largely supplant what were the southbound lanes of Route 66. In places, the freeway is just a few yards away, and it is quite unsettling to see traffic hurtling toward us as we head south.

Route 66 south of Gardner, IL

Soon, I-55 bends away from Route 66, exposing the remnants of the old southbound lanes. Access to these abandoned sections is barred by grassy berms or metal guardrails; in many places, patches of vegetation obscure the road surface; in some instances, grass has replaced the roadbed altogether. 

I am mesmerized by this ghost highway, imagining streams of phantom travelers heading west, each with a dream of the open road.

Braidwood's Polk-A-Dot Drive-In

Every time I see my cat licking its asshole I think about my ex wife. But that’s how nostalgia works, right? We only remember the best of the available memories.

--Jarod Kintz, Seriously delirious, but not at all serious

Polk-A-Dot's larger-than-life pop icon greeters

Since 1956, the Polk-A-Dot Drive-In has been a staple on Route 66, serving classic diner fare to locals and travelers alike. Originally located in a rainbow polka-dotted school bus that served lunch from a mini-sized kitchen, the restaurant expanded to the current location, offering a classic fifties drive-in experience. Larger-than-life statues of Elvis, Marilyn Monroe, James Dean, Betty Boop, and The Blues Brothers beckon Route 66 travelers to stop and enjoy a nostalgic blast from the past.

Inside, the dining room features retro decor: black-and-white linoleum floor with matching chrome-trimmed booths, tables, chairs, and swivel stools; Route 66-theme wallpaper; a coin-operated kiddie car; an awesome antique gas pump gumball machine; and numerous photos of pop icons from the fifties and sixties. The women's restroom is plastered with photos of Elvis, including the famous pic of The King in his skivvies for his Army induction physical, which is prominently placed opposite the commode for easy viewing. Nice touch. This place certainly has a lot of charm. No wonder the Polk-A-Dot earns high marks for atmosphere in Yelp! and TripAdvisor reviews.

We peruse the menu boards above the counter, which list a variety of sandwiches (burgers, hot dogs, hoagies, Italian beef, Polish sausage, etc.), sides (fries, hush puppies, onion rings, chili), salads (we usually avoid these at fast-food joints), dinners (fried fish, shrimp, or chicken with your choice of fries, coleslaw, or mashed potatoes and a roll), and ice-cream treats (Arctic Swirl, sundae, float, slushie, banana split). The online food reviews are mixed, so we play it relatively safe by ordering two chicken dinners with coleslaw and mashed potatoes. Can't go too wrong with fried chicken, right?

Antique gas pump gumball machine and kiddie car

When we step up to the counter, we have second thoughts about actually eating here. It's not just the snotty teenager who acts like we are imposing on her by placing our order. No, that's the least of it. The kitchen is full of teenagers who are too busy messing around to notice that the place is a complete disaster area. T and I look at each other, wondering if we should keep driving. Hunger pangs get the best of us, however, forcing us to accept the risk of food poisoning. Seriously.

As I nervously wait for our food at our cozy booth, I admire the tabletop jukebox. The turnstile features many of the greatest hits from the fifties and sixties, such as "California Dreamin'," by The Mamas & the Papas; "That'll Be the Day," by Buddy Holly; and "Do You Know the Way to San Jose," by Dionne Warwick. I would insert a quarter to play a tune, but the music in the background is already a bit too loud.

When our food arrives, it's just as bad as I had feared. The chicken is over-fried (yes, it's possible), which has rendered the scraps of  meat left on the bones tough and greasy. Both of us can tell that the fryer oil hasn't been changed in quite a while, so we pick off as much of the breading as possible. The coleslaw is bland, wilted, and a bit too warm, so let's just put that Styrofoam salmonella incubator off to the side with the pile of nasty breading. The pasty mashed potatoes taste like they came straight from a box, and the gravy has way too much salt. No doubt about it: This chicken dinner officially qualifies as one of the worst meals ever. We should have ordered burger baskets.

On a positive note, I'm glad we didn't order the chili-cheese fries, which look like they should be served with a side of antacid--or an anti-diarrheal.

However, we can't leave without giving the ice cream a try. After all, this is a drive-in. Both of us order a Choco Cherry Arctic Swirl. It is delicious--and much better than the comparable Choco Cherry Love Blizzard served at Dairy Queen. The vanilla ice cream is creamy, chock full of large, whole cherries, and mixed with just the right amount of chocolate. Yum! Turns out that redemption can be served in a Styrofoam cup, too.

Wilmington's Gemini Giant

“What seems real one moment is fiction the next
and gone out of existence the moment after that.
Nostalgia is the greatest enemy of truth,
and change our only constancy.”

― David Budbill, Judevine: The Complete Poems, 1970-1990

Gemini Giant at Launching Pad Drive-In

The Dow chemical plant announces the approach of Wilmington, home of the Gemini Giant. Entering town from the north, the huge fiberglass statue greets Route 66 travelers at the historic Launching Pad Drive-In. Originally named the Dari Delite, the restaurant opened in 1960, selling only hot dogs and ice cream. In 1965, owner John Korelc expanded the menu and changed the name to Launching Pad Drive-In, presumably to honor Project Gemini, NASA's second manned spaceflight program (1965-66), which completed the first American spacewalk, plus missions long enough to support a future trip to the moon and back.

Why not honor the historic achievements of the time by putting a giant space man in your parking lot? Korelc obviously thought this would be a great idea, and so have countless of travelers on Route 66 just like us who have stopped here since the sixties.

Gemini Giant is one of a few hundred remaining "Muffler Men" stationed along Route 66 to attract travelers' attention and advertise a host of products and services. International Fiberglass, Inc. manufactured thousands of these commercial statues in the 1960s and '70s, customizing a single statue mold for various retailers and selling additional eye-catching accessories, such as mammoth mufflers and gigantic golf clubs. Clad in his green flight suit and silver space helmet, Gemini Giant is certainly an attention-getter on East Baltimore Street, especially with that rocket in his hands!  

Launching Pad Drive-In waits for a dreamer to awaken

Alas! The Gemini Giant has withstood the test of time better than the Launching Pad itself. We don't see a For Sale sign, but we suspect that the property is on the market: There's no greeting or daily special listed on the marquee; no cars are parked in the lot. Letters have fallen off the sign on the storefront. We circle the shabby exterior, looking in the windows to see what we can of this iconic restaurant. The interior looks clean and ready for customers, but it exudes the feeling of the mock drive-in at the Route 66 Experience in Joliet: plenty to see from the outside looking in through a window to the past, but closed to a real experience in the present.

Nostalgia is like that.

While we are ruminating on the constancy of change, a car pulls up in the lot. Our suspicion about the restaurant holds true: The driver is a Realtor, and he is here to assess the property to list on the market. We strike up a conversation about the status of the place. He tells me about the restaurant's struggles during the past few years, and I offer some suggestions for making it viable once again. I point out that the custom-made tables alone, featuring the Gemini Giant and a map of Route 66, are worth a fortune to 66 collectors but are priceless icons as fixtures of this hallowed historic shrine.

Custom-made Route 66-theme dining tables

The Realtor admits that he didn't realize Route 66 is such a big deal because he's lived in the area all of his life. I suggest that he contact the Illinois Route 66 Association and the National Route 66 Federation for help with marketing the business to someone with a rocket of a dream that needs a launching pad. He expresses his appreciation for fresh ideas regarding how to bring this iconic establishment back to life on the Mother Road. Sometimes all it takes is a conversation to initiate the change you wish to see in the world. 

On our way out of town, we wish that we could stop at some of the other attractions in Wilmington that are described in the guidebook: the Eagle Hotel (100 Water Street), which has been catering to travelers by riverboat, stagecoach, and automobile since 1836; the Mar Theatre (121 S. Main Street), which has been showing first-run movies since 1937; and the historic downtown, which is full of antique shops and good restaurants, such as Hayden's Crossing, Michelle's Restaurant, and Nelly's on Rt. 66.

We're getting hungry, but we decide to press on to Braidwood, which is another five miles down the road. Like countless travelers of Route 66 who have come before us, at least we stopped to meet Wilmington's most famous resident: the Gemini Giant.

Joliet's Kicks on 66

If you ever plan to motor west,
Travel my way, take the highway that is best.
Get your kicks on Route sixty-six.

--Bobby Troup

After our brief excursion to childhood, we continue cruising The Strip through Berwyn, blithely missing the turn for Route 66 at Harlem Avenue. Instead of continuing straight into Lyons, Route 66 makes a dogleg at the very busy intersection of Ogden and Harlem avenues, merging briefly with Illinois 43 before turning southwest onto Joliet Road. We know this now after several missteps. How did anyone ever make it to California?

We finally enter Lyons, where California Auto Service is a hopeful harbinger of our ultimate destination. In ultra-industrial McCook, the old Skyline Motel languishes in disrepair, but time-honored McCook Bohemian-American Family Restaurant still looks lively; Steak N Egger now occupies the site of Snuffy's Restaurant, a former 66 icon. The Route takes us by the enormous McCook Quarry, fortunately not via the original route, now abandoned, which spanned the 650-acre limestone pit. We drive by the insta-classic Willow Hills Restaurant & Pancake House next to 66 Tire & Auto in Countryside, then through Indian Head Park, past the old Wolf's Head Inn. In Willowbrook, we pass Del Rhea's Chicken Basket, a 66 mainstay at mile marker 274 since 1938. 

Approaching the first fork in the road

Winding through the suburbs on Joliet Road, Route 66 shows its age. The Route traces the earliest known road connecting Chicago and St. Louis, which was originally a well-worn Native American trail, then a stagecoach road that was renamed "Pontiac Trail" in 1915. Route 66 follows much of the Pontiac Trail, stitching together as many towns and cities as possible on its ziggedy-zaggedy way to St. Louis. 

At Darien, Route 66 merges with I-55 for a few miles. The need for speed straightens out this stretch of the route for commuters between Illinois' two state capitals, Chicago and Springfield. We have a choice: Do we want to remain on I-55, the newest alignment of Route 66, which will whisk us lickety-split to Springfield; or do we want to take Exit 268 onto the 1926 alignment of Route 66, a two-laner that will take us through all of the small towns bypassed by the freeway? 

Looks like we won't make Springfield by nightfall.

Exit 268 takes us into Bolingbrook, past Montana Charlie's Flea Market and large industrial parks. In Romeoville, we drive by White Fence Farm (famous for its chicken dishes since the 1920s), Mongo McMichael's banquet facility, Historic Route 66 Plaza, and Eggman's Omelets. Road construction and heavy traffic make for very slow going, giving us a sense of what Route 66 would have been like during the peak travel months before I-55 provided a faster alternative route.

The congested suburban roadway finally gives way to more open countryside. We pass Historic Fitzpatrick House and Gaylord Building Historic site. In the distance, we can see the I&M Canal, which helped establish Chicago as the transportation hub of the United States in the 1800s; now the canal only flows into history as a National Historic Landmark. We admire the bucolic grassland of Prairie Bluff Preserve. Adjacent to the preserve, Stateville Prison sulks on the hillside just outside of Joliet.

When we finally reach Joliet, it’s already 3:00 p.m., and we have traveled only 63 miles! It’s definitely time for ice cream, so we stop at Rich & Creamy on the edge of town for a soft-serve cone. Thanks, Tom! The cone is just as delicious as you said it would be in the guidebook. Typical of the ice cream stores that used to dot Route 66 in its heyday, Rich & Creamy is a popular spot, especially after being restored to its original retro appearance--with the exception of The Blues Brothers, Jake and Elwood, dancing on the rooftop!

As we enjoy our cones, we stroll through adjacent Route 66 Park to stretch our legs, admire the eclectic selection of public art, and browse the informational exhibits and kiosks that highlight Route 66 attractions throughout the city, including murals, sculptures, mosaics, antique replica gas pumps, and classic architecture, such as the "Jewel of Joliet." Obviously, Joliet's city leaders understand the national significance of Route 66 and have carefully planned for the thousands of travelers just like us from throughout the United States and the world who make driving Route 66 their ultimate destination.

The kiosks plot a journey through the city, beginning here at Route 66 Park, continuing with a stop at the Route 66 Experience in the Joliet Area Historical Museum and Route 66 Welcome Center in downtown, and concluding with a list of reasons to stay in town: a first-run show at the elegantly restored Rialto Square Theatre; a tour of Union Station or the stately Victorian Jacob Henry Mansion; or perhaps a motorsport event at the Chicagoland Speedway or Route 66 Raceway.

On our way to the Route 66 Welcome Center, we have to stop at Dick’s Towing down the street for a photo op.  The old cars, 66 signs, and auto parts littering the yard make Dick's look more like a museum or sculpture garden than a working business. Is that Dick waving from the front window? Looks like a nice guy. The vintage Packard and Chevrolet are reminders of the good old days when Route 66 was a busy highway that supplied plenty of business for garages with tow trucks. A hand-lettered sign on the 1950 Pontiac Silver Streak perched on the rooftop reads "California or bust." Yes, indeed!

We park downtown and walk to the Route 66 Welcome Center. On the way, we encounter our first Illinois Route 66 Scenic Byway Experience Hub, a 9-foot kiosk with interpretive panels that tell the story of Route 66 in the region and provide information about local attractions and how to find them. Did you know that Joliet played a role in the 1980 movie classic The Blues Brothers? The adventure begins when "Joliet" Jake is released from the Joliet Prison and is picked up by his brother, Elwood, who was named for the next town to the south. No wonder there are so many Blues Brothers sculptures around town. With the press of a button, we hear Bobby Troup sing his song "Route 66." Of course, we get our kicks by singing along. What a cool kiosk!

Located at the crossroads of Route 66 and Lincoln Highway, the Joliet Area Historical Museum and Route 66 Welcome Center is definitely worth the visit. Here, Route 66 is immortalized as the Main Street of America in stories, songs, art, and collectibles. Burma-Shave signs and Roadside Giants remind visitors of how the Mother Road was and continues to be a powerful driver of commercialized American culture and an engine of economic opportunity fueled by the American Dream. 

The Route 66 Experience offers free, interactive exhibits for children and adults alike. We act more like adolescents, sitting back and watching a movie at the mock drive-in theater; jumping in the Corvette and ordering a meal at the mock drive-in diner; and settling into a room at the mock Route 66 Motel and watching an episode of Rt. 66 on a real, old-fashioned television. We especially enjoy visiting the gift shop, which stocks a wide array of faboo 66 merchandise. As we pay for our purchases, we ask the friendly clerk to share some of her favorite 66 adventures. (Hint: We can hardly wait to visit Funks Grove and Devils Elbow.) On our way out the door, we stock up on free pamphlets and brochures that describe what's ahead on The Route. 

We would love to spend the night in Joliet and experience more Kicks on 66, but we still have 2,383 miles of highway ahead of us!

Reluctantly, we leave Joliet in the rear-view mirror, passing the Chicago Speedway and Route 66 Raceway. What's that unidentified flying object in the parking lot of 66 Food and Fuel? It's The Blues Brothers’ Plymouth cop cruiser hoisted on a pole with Elwood at the wheel and Jake riding shotgun in perpetuity! Yep.

We drive under the I-80 overpass, crawling along in heavy truck traffic again. We pass another quarry, then miles of cornfields on both sides of the road until we reach Abraham Lincoln National Cemetery nestled in the grassland on the outskirts of Elwood. We drive by the Sukup silos of Prairie Creek Terminal Services and Grain Company, which mark the skyline of tiny Marshland, then past Jim German's Vegetables roadside stand. Flocks of sheep graze in the roadside pastures.

Hard to believe that Chicago's skyscrapers rise into the clouds just beyond the horizon line.